“Srirangapatna is one of the most beautiful island towns in Karnataka with a long history”, my Aunt mentioned as we entered the town. "Is Srirangapatna an island?" WHAT?”, I replied. As someone born and raised in Bengaluru and having visited Mysore nearly every summer, I was surprised to discover that Srirangapatna is actually an island. I was shaken and embarrassed. Ah, like, how/why did I not know that?
As we had just arrived in town and still had some time before reaching our first destination, I decided to look up Srirangapatna in the gazetteer to gain some knowledge about it. Basically, it is situated at the western end of an island in the river Cauvery. The Cauvery River divides at Gautamakshetra, a small island west of Srirangapatna. The name of the town comes from the deity worshiped there locally at Ranganatha temple. The original town of Srirangapatna is considered to have been built in 1120 A.D. by Udayaditya, brother of King Vishnuvardhana Hoysala.
In 1454, the chief of Nagamangala, Timmanna, visited Vijayanagar and was granted the title of Dannayaka along with the government of Srirangapatna. He also sought permission to establish a fort at Srirangapatna, which he eventually did by using a hidden treasure that he had discovered. He then went on to improve and expand the Ranganatha Temple, thus leaving behind a powerful legacy. Later, around 1495, Srirangapatna was passed into direct possession of the Vijayanagar Empire and was administered by Sri Ranga Raya. In 1610, Raja Wodeyar took control of Srirangapatna and made it his capital, and it continued to be even under the government of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan until it was captured by the British army in 1799.
In 1799, the British Govt. leased Srirangapatna to Mysore Wodeyars for a fixed sum. After this, the capital was shifted to Mysore, and Srirangapatna witnessed a downfall in terms of growth and development. While reading, what intrigued me the most was Major Dirom’s (a staff officer in the British Army in 1792) description of the place. He mentions, “....this insulated metropolis must have been the richest, most convenient and beautiful spot possessed in the present age by any native prince in India”. As I read through this, I couldn't help but imagine the immense prosperity that the town once enjoyed, only to crumble to its present condition where it is often overlooked among other cities. By then we had reached our first destination.
Since Sri Ranganathaswamy temple closes early during the day, we made the decision to begin our exploration of Srirangapatna from there. The temple is believed to have been built in three different phases, showcasing the remarkable craftsmanship of both the Hoysala and Vijayanagar periods. Along with the figure of Ranganatha, the figures of Goddess Cauvery and Gautama Rishi are also kept in the sanctum sanctorum. Gautama Rishi is said to have worshiped the god Ranganathaswami. Apparently, the temples of Ranganathaswami located on the three islands of Srirangapatna, Shivanasamudram, and Srirangam are known as the Adi Ranga, Madhya Ranga, and Antya Ranga, respectively. After darshana, we headed to Nimishanbha Temple.
The Nimishambha Temple is said to have been built during 1610-38 A.D. during the reign of Mummadi Krishnaraja Wodeyar. The main deity of the temple is Goddess Parvati. Along with her, Lord Shiva, who is called Aksheeswara here (an undersized linga) is also worshiped. According to local belief, Nimishambha has the power to instantly resolve any issues or problems faced by devotees. That’s the reason it is called Nimishambha (‘Nimisha’ means minute).
After the temple, we went to Daria Daulat Bagh (meaning wealth of the sea), Tipu Sultan’s summer palace. The palace is surrounded by a vast and stunning garden, making it an idyllic and tranquil spot to unwind and relax on the lawn. The palace was constructed using Saracenic architecture. It has wooden pillars with trefoil arches. Each and every wall of the palace tells a unique and fascinating story. The palace also features an exquisite museum, showcasing a diverse collection of paintings created by renowned artists. The artworks depict important events that occurred in Karnataka and surrounding states throughout history.
As we were walking around the palace, we took our time admiring the artwork on each wall, making an effort to unravel the story behind each painting. Meanwhile, we discreetly listened in on the fascinating insights provided by the guides to other tourists. As we walked out of the palace, we discussed the unfortunate lack of architectural preservation in certain sites in India. It's truly disheartening to witness the lack of care in preserving certain beautiful monuments or sites. We later spent some time sitting on the garden lawn, casually discussing things and taking a lot of pictures.
After resting a bit on the lawn, we headed to Gombaz, a majestic mausoleum constructed by Tipu Sultan in honor of his father, Hyder Ali. As I gazed upon it, it evoked images of the Taj Mahal. The structure is a square shape surmounted by a dome, and 4 pillars gracefully adorning each corner. Today, the bodies of Tipu Sultan, his father, and his mother are buried here.
We walked around the area, admiring the architecture and engaging in conversation with the friendly caretaker. As soon as we were finished, we made our way back to the home of my aunt's parents. Ah, I almost forgot to mention that they actually reside in Srirangapatna. On our way, we had to pass through the fort. I was pleasantly surprised to come across these adorable miniature versions of all the famous monuments in Srirangapatna near the fort. Apparently, a sound and light show takes place in the evening to give visitors an insight into the rich history of Srirangapatna and all the remarkable events that have unfolded there.
In between, we made a stop at Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon. There are two dungeons in Srirangapatna. Both of them have low vaulted brick roofs. The dungeon is named after Colony Bailey, as it is the very location where Tipu Sultan imprisoned him. Captain Baird, Sampson, and Lindsay were among the other officers who were also captivated. It is also believed that one of these dungeons held Dhondia Wagh, a ferocious Maratha warrior.
One of the most surprising things I saw in the dungeon was a cannon situated prominently in the center of the underground chamber. This cannon is believed to be the one that was fired during the historic siege of Srirangapatnam. It seems the cannon pierced the ceiling of the dungeon and fell inside the dungeon.
While we were discussing the various features of the dungeon, including the different holes created to serve specific purposes, my aunt brought up the Obelisk Monument, which was located just a short distance away. It is adjacent to the walls of the Srirangapatna Fort. So we decided to go check it out.
The Obelisk is surrounded by a series of concentric steps. It was built in memory of the British officers and Native soldiers who lost their lives during the siege of Srirangapatnam in 1799. In 1907, during the reign of Krishna Raja Wodeyar IV, the Wodeyars showed their gratitude for regaining their throne from the Sultans by constructing this memorial.
The Obelisk contains information about the siege on a plaque fitted to the structure, including the total number of casualties suffered, the names of soldiers involved, and a comprehensive list of the European officers who were martyred during the conflict. The siege had resulted in a tragic toll: 192 people lost their lives, 657 were injured, and 25 remain unaccounted for.
After reading all the details on the plaque, we took a seat near the fort and gazed at the mesmerizing scenery of the Cauvery River. It was incredibly calming. Later, my aunt started talking about how the town has evolved since her youth, and we ended up reminiscing about the past. I love hearing stories from folks from diverse locales about what life was like in the past and how it has transformed over time. The beauty of it is that it provides a glimpse of how much times have changed and reminds us that nothing is constant.
After gazing at the river for a while, we decided to head back home for a late lunch as my aunt's parents were eagerly expecting our arrival. They had prepared one of my favorite dishes, puri with chicken curry, and for the first time in a long while, I ate multiple servings of the delicious puris.
Later, I struck up a conversation with Taata (my aunt's father), about the fascinating history of Srirangapatna. We delved into what life was like during the Indian independence movement and whether he had witnessed any historical events in the area. We even discussed how he spends his time at home now. He shared with me his impressive collection of artifacts that he lovingly makes for his grandchildren. Seeing the joy that creating these items brings him was truly heartwarming. And it was time for us to head back to Mysore after learning some new crafting skills from Taata. What a fulfilling and heartwarming day it was!
Short Guide to Srirangapatna
Getting around
You can reach Srirangapatna by bus or train from either Bangalore or Mysore or by your own vehicle. The roads here are very convenient for getting around. One of the most convenient ways to navigate around town is by utilizing auto transportation.
Must Visit Places
Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple
Nimishambha Temple
Dariya Daulat Bagh
Gumbaz
Captain Bailey’s Dungeon
Srirangapatna Fort
The Obelisk
KRS Dam
Brindavan Gardens
Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary
Balmuri Falls
Trek to Kunti Betta
If you found this blog valuable, please share it with your friends and family, and plan a trip soon to Srirangapatna. Taking a day trip is absolutely worth it!
Disclaimer: All the pictures posted in this blog post are clicked by me. Please do not use it without due credits. :)
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