Among plenty of greenery, flowing rivers, and hills in the south of Goa lies Chandor, a picturesque village. When you first enter the village, you might wonder what this village has to offer. Not many people are out, the roads are quiet, and you are bound to wonder “What do I even get to see here”, or “Why was this place even suggested to me in the first place”? That was honestly my reaction when I got to Chandor after a long ride from Palolem.
Once you are there for a while, the place will start growing on you. Simply walking from one street to another will relax you with the fresh breeze of the air and the quietness of the neighborhood. And that is not all that Chandor has got to offer. When you unravel its layers and learn more about its history, you will realize how significant a role this village played back then.
Chandor was previously known as Chandrapur. It is on the bank of River Paroda (a tributary of the Zuari) and was one of the oldest ports of Goa. Some of the excavated pottery found here associates the origin of this important trade center back to the period of Satavahanas (around 200 BCE). Later, in the 3rd-4th CE, the Bhojas made it their Capital. Followed by the Chalukyas of Badami (580 CE to 750 CE), Shilaharas, and the Kadambas.
Around 1029 CE, the Kadambas shifted their capital from Chandor to Velha, which soon became the center for various commercial activities and trade. In 1312 CE, Malik Kafur (general of the Delhi Sultanate) and his army swept through the horizon like black locusts. They caused massive damage to the Konkan region, including Goa. In order to protect the Kingdom and escape the attacks of Malik Kafur, the then-Kadamba king flew back to Chandor and built a fort there. During this period of time, the Kadamba dynasty was going through a lot of internal problems. One of the copper plate inscriptions found in Ponda talks of a rebel Kadamba prince inviting Jamal-Ud-Din of Honavar for help after Tughlaq’s invasion. The internal problems eventually led to the decline of Kadamba's rule in the region. The thriving trade suffered the damages too. And in 1327 CE, whatever glory was left of the Kadambas, Muhammad Bin Tughlaq's army destroyed it. After this, for a brief period of time, the region went under the control of the Vijayanagara Empire. Then, followed by the Bahmani Sultans (1469 CE), and lastly the Adil Shahis of Bijapur (1488 CE).
Soon after, in 1510 CE, the Portuguese came into power in Goa, after defeating the then-Bijapur Sultan, Yousuf Adil Shah. They set up their capital in Velha. During this period, they imposed their infamous 'Inquisition' on the people of Goa. They forcibly converted thousands of Hindus to Roman Catholicism. Eventually, it was also imposed on Jewish immigrants from Portugal. Soon this became an easy way of taking away desirable properties by the Inquisitors. (Benton, 2002, p. 122).
Even in Chandor, many families accepted Christianity in order to save their lives from the inquisitors. The first family in Chandor to embrace Christianity was the Braganza family. After their conversion, they were granted trade rights to various parts of the world. Due to this, they became extremely wealthy and built a beautiful mansion which is one of the largest and oldest surviving Portuguese villas in Goa. A part of the villa is now converted into a museum to allow people to understand how things have changed over time. They also showcase a huge number of well-preserved antiques. Which is also the first place I visited in Chandor.
Apparently, when the Portuguese invaded Chandor, the then-Kadamba ruler, Harihar died in the battle. It was believed that he was killed because the villagers did not protect him in the battle. After his death, his wife, enraged, stamped her feet on a stone outside a temple and declared that from then on, in the village, every woman would become a widow. Because of the curse, apparently, the neighboring villages stopped giving their daughters to the men of Chandrapur, and a lot of problems followed for the villagers. The stone with her footprints is still preserved and is kept in the middle of the steps front side of St Tiago Chapel, Cotta, Chandor.
Walking ahead from the Braganza family’s house, I found another heritage building of the Fernandes. This is another well-preserved ancestral property (500 years old) that showcases a blend of Portuguese and Goan Cultures. If you look closely, you will find how the building is inspired by European architectural style with a tint of Hindu architectural style. The most fascinating part about visiting the house was getting to see their hideout in the basement. I personally freaked out at the start thinking it was some kind of trap, lol. There were gun holes in the hideout.
The house showcases various antiques, including those from the time of the Kadambas. A granite stone pillar with an inscription in the Kannada script that dates back to the 7th century is displayed. It mentions the name of the sculptor Desloja who wrote the record on that stone. Another granite stone sculpture of Lord Bhairav (who guards the village) dates back to the pre-Kadamba period. Other antiquities displayed include Modi Script, Belgium Mirror, an unusual piece of coconut that is in the shape of Ganesha’s trunk, and more.
Walking down the same road, almost 500 m ahead, my eyes caught the headless statue of a Nandi (sacred bull of Lord Shiva) on an excavated site. Standing in front of the excavation site and seeing the lone headless Nandi, I could only imagine the grandeur of the temple that once stood there, dedicated to Lord Shiva, and trying to reason with what might have happened.
In the 1930s, Fr. Henry Heras, SJ excavated the site and unearthed an 11th-century Shiva temple and also a Nandi bull. Dr. Olivinho Gomes in his book, ‘Village Goa,’ mentions that the Nandi bull is, “said to be the biggest in India after that of Mysore, which latter it resembles in its art but not in size. The Muslims cut out a large part of its stomach to see if it contained diamonds, pearls, or other precious stones, broke its mouth to see if there was any treasure hidden in it, chopped off the tail to see if they could find any precious stones in its arms. Seeing that it did not have anything in it, they broke its legs, dislodged it from the seat of stone and turned it up-side-down, to see if there was something underneath it, but without success.” After which, the ASI made two excavations at this site, one in 1974, and the other in 1999-2000. The site now has a lone Nandi and a step-well, which is now covered with a wire mesh grill.
The other prominent place to visit in Chandor is the Nossa Senhora De Belem Church. Locally known as the Chandor Church. It was built in 1645. After its front piece collapsed in 1949, the church was reconstructed in a Neo-Gothic style with its Mannerist character maintained. The Chapel in the Chandor Parish without Chaplains is St Anthony’s Chapel and St Tiago Chapel. The church is one of the three in Goa to celebrate the feast of the Three Kings. The other two are Cansaulim and the Reis Magos Church.
After walking around the village for a long time, I was tired and hungry. So, I looked up on Google for nearby food joints and was recommended Remedios Bakery and Flames Garden Cafe. Both of these establishments are beloved by locals and are sure to provide a rejuvenating break from sightseeing.
P.S.: You will find authentic Goan Breads at Remedios Bakery. So, don't forget to give it a try!
Honestly, exploring Chandor was an overwhelming experience as there is an abundance of fascinating, hidden stories waiting to be explored and shared. Considering all the historical events that have taken place there, it truly deserves more acknowledgment and recognition.
If you liked this blog post, please share it with your friends and family. Check out the other posts on the site as well. I hope you add Chandor to your list the next time you visit Goa. It's worth it!
Disclaimer: All the pictures posted in this blog post are clicked by me. Please do not use it without due credits :)
Insightful...got to know abt sonething new which we would have not read in our history books.