The hill station of Ooty is nestled in the Nilgiris and was part of the Madras Presidency's summer capital. Its green mountains, clear lakes, and many woods make it a nature lover’s paradise.
I often visited Ooty as a child, since my relatives live there. For a long time, I was planning my visit to Ooty, and I finally did in June. However, this time, my intention was not just to go to the usual tourist spots, but to truly immerse myself in the essence of the place. So, I searched on Google to see what I could explore additionally during my visit. I stumbled upon a rather intriguing suggestion — the Toda temples.
Upon searching more, I learned that the Toda tribe is recognized as one of the prominent tribal groups in India. Their name is likely derived from the Kannada word “Tudavar”, which means “those who live at the top”, or alternatively from the Tamil word “Toran” or “Toruvan” which means “Shepherd”. They usually speak in the Toda Language.
After reading briefly about Todas, I was sure that I wanted to meet them and learn more about their culture and traditions. So, when I visited Ooty, I inquired with my relatives about their whereabouts. My uncle was kind enough to take me where they lived.
We drove up the hill, away from the bustling city center to a place where hardly anyone could be found. I was unsure if we were at the right place until I caught sight of the Toda temple. It was an undeniable confirmation that we had arrived at the correct location.
Having seen a few pictures before, I was familiar with how the Toda temple looked. Their temples are quite different from what we regularly visit. It is tall and constructed in the shape of a hut. On the walls of the temples are decorative motifs representing the crescent moon, the sun, the lotus flowers, stars, and sacred buffalo in the center. Todas do not worship idols. They are dedicated to worshiping the sacred Buffalo, honoring it through rituals that revolve around the vital process of obtaining milk and other products that are essential to their diet.
Looking at the temple, I was very curious about entering the temple and seeing how it looked from the inside. As we walked towards the temple, a man from afar screamed asking us to not enter the temple. He walked up to us and informed us that the general public could not visit the temple at the moment.
Afterward, I initiated a conversation with him, driven by a strong desire to learn about their rituals and every aspect thereof. He was happy to share information about their community. He started by explaining their longstanding preference for living apart, high up on the hill, far from the bustling city. He mentioned that their settlements are referred to as "munds" or "mundas". Every mund comprised several small, barrel-shaped huts constructed with bamboo and thatch.
While some of them in the community had adapted to the development and progress of our world, with homes equipped with modern amenities, there were still some who remained deeply connected to their traditions. So, I had the opportunity to see both types of houses in their settlement.
I also couldn't help but notice that all the houses were being painted in the same color (a shade of purple), which made me curious. So, I asked him the reason behind this. He then mentioned that a wedding was about to take place. It's a tradition that when someone from their community is getting married, they paint all the houses in the same color and the women from other places return a few weeks before for the grand celebration. In every settlement of theirs, there is a vibrant community hall where all the social activities come to life.
After saying goodbye to him, I took a leisurely walk. As I walked around, I came across a group of women seated in the field, engrossed in conversation while delicately sewing something. For a while, I hesitated before approaching them and engaging in a conversation.
They revealed their stitching work to me, explaining that it was Toda Embroidery, locally called "pukhoor". They are skilled professionals in this embroidery and have even obtained the Geographical Indication tag. This embroidery technique is used to stitch a variety of products, such as shawls, dupattas, sarees, and more. It is made with the use of red and black threads on a white cotton cloth background. The best part? Both sides of the embroidered fabric can be used efficiently.
Moreover, what sets this embroidery apart is its unique characteristic of incorporating thread counts as the foundation for its patterns, as opposed to modern embroidery which relies on pre-determined patterns and designs. Toda Embroidery does not have any pattern books available. The patterns showcase their remarkable creativity, as they conceptualize unique designs in their minds and skillfully imprint them onto fabric. Their primary source of inspiration lies in nature, daily lives, mythologies, and the vibrant hues found in the flora and fauna of the Nilgiris.
After talking and spending quality time with them, I realized that true happiness doesn't come from having a lot of things in life. It is only when we truly have time on our hands, we can find joy even in the simplest activities.
The Toda women spend their days happily embroidering, enjoying the company of their friends, and engaging in long conversations in the field. They truly enjoy their lives to the fullest doing the most basic and simplest activities. That's something I truly desire for myself. A simple life, where I am not in the RAT RACE to achieve something soon.
This reminds me of something my 12-year-old cousin mentioned when I was in Ooty. I asked him if he would ever leave Ooty for further studies or work. He replied, “I have the privilege of sleeping under a roof while being immersed in nature. Every morning I wake up to a symphony of birds and breathe in the freshest air. I am surrounded by countless species of plants and animals. What more would I want?” (Translation of what he said in Kannada)
His words resonated with me, making me realize that genuine contentment and serenity in life do not stem from material possessions alone. I was very happy to hear such profound thoughts from such a young boy and I truly hope that his mindset remains unchanged as he grows older.
Overall, despite the development and progress of cities, there are still certain regions in our country where people live a tranquil life, focusing on their own affairs and preserving their unique culture, and the Todas are one of them. And there is just so little research done on their community!
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Disclaimer: All the pictures posted in this post are clicked by me. Please do not use it without due credits. :)
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